Category: New Orleans

In Session

I have a dream. I’m going to move to New Orleans and open up a DC-themed bar. I’m going to call it “In Session” and set it up somewhere posh where we can pick up tourists and commuters. For all the expats, it’ll be a true home away from home. The first thing I’ll do […]


As you read this, my plane will be bumping from BWI to New Orleans, a town I’ve tried to visit at least once a year since 2001.

Treme: A Glossary

Treme is about to become your new favorite show.  You may not know this yet, but it’s true.  HBO has already ordered a second season before the first one has even wrapped.  The television-watching intelligentsia have been waiting for David Simon’s return to a regular series—not quite as rabidly as Salinger fans were waiting for […]

Le Bon Temps

We shared a table with a Canadian couple the other night, Saturday, waiting for the parade to start.  He was already four scotches in and still seemed mighty sober.  She was adjusting her scarf, watching out for him, watching out for herself, the plum limit inside her glass falling down slowly.  A slightly older couple […]

Open Hearted Dogs, Part 1

Dad started banging the pots in the mornings.  He’d grab a clean one in his big left hand, find a pair of tongs or a stainless steel spoon for his right then hold each tool above his head and beat on.  It was the count-off rhythm of a hundred songs: one, two, one-two-three-four!  After that […]

The Gustav Evactuation, Part 3: The Wait

We know what we smell like, okay?  Hours and hours under the sun or smothered by night heat have us sweating coffee, sweating Red Bull.  The clench of old cigarette smoke.  Fast food and soda breath.  We are covered in pet hair or the sticky evidence of children’s fingerprints.  We ceased to smell like travelers […]

The Gustav Evacuation, Part 2: The Drive

Cue the music.  We’re going for a ride. It’s hot as Labor Day weekend should be, summer’s last holiday, last chance to boil.  We have our windows down and the music is passing between cars and mixing in the space between, pidgin notes and lyrics.  The few radio stations not on a constant bulletin loop, […]

The Gustav Evacuation, Part 1: Preparations

We all remember what happened last time.  This has all, somehow, made us experts.  When the season begins, the government and the media remind us to make our plans.  Buy some maps.  Update your phone numbers.  Gather all the right containers.  We all know better.  They’re not the experts.  It’s us, the ones on the […]

Haunted by the Dog Man

Here they come around the corner of the block, the man and his dogs.  He wears soft buckskin moccasins so the sound of his feet treading the sidewalk imitates that of his two companions.  Padt padt padt.  The only difference is the rhythm of their strides.  The dogs are tall and shaggy, solemn black and […]